David Danzig

An old Civil War canon takes aim at downtown Chattanooga and the Tennessee River from atop Point Park on Lookout Mountain.

IF YOU GO

Just two hours north on I-75, Chattanooga isn’t messing around when it comes to tourism. This is one of the most organized, travel-friendly places, with a gazillion attractions. Call 800-322-3344 or visit www.chattanoogafun.com to get started.

The Tennessee Aquarium offers a two-day Big Fish Pass for the special introductory price of $24.95 per adult and $17.50 per child (ages 3-12) at the aquarium’s ticketing center and online at www.tnaqua.org.

Rock City and Ruby Falls are $14.95 per person. Both attractions are very close on the mountain and easy to do in half a day. www.seerockcity.com and www.rubyfalls.com.

The Sheraton Read House combines a little history with a lot of creature comforts. It's an easy walk to the Aquarium and many downtown sites. Special insider tip: Be sure to mention you’re up from the ATL—Georgia residents qualify for a special “resident rate” starting at $159 a night. www.sheraton.com/chattanooga.

By David Danzig

    Chattanooga, I am sorry. Chattanooga, I was wrong. To borrow a word from President Bush—Chattanooga, I misunderestimated you. The good news is that I’m man enough to admit it, and I only hope I can make it up to you.

You see, I’ve always been a traveler who likes collecting passport stamps, hearing foreign tongues and tasting exotic foods. I like the challenge of being out of my element. And Chattanooga, Tenn., just a two-hour drive up I-75, has always seemed, shall we say, a teensy bit provincial.
But as my wife and I just traded in our DINK (dual income no kids) status for a SIWK (single income with kid) life, we decided it was time to put the passports into the safe deposit box and search for travel that was close, easy and kid-friendly. Hello, Chattanooga!

TALE OF TWO CITIES

    Like Atlanta, Chattanooga finds itself in a search for its identity: vacillating between Old South tradition and a progressive spirit. And like Atlanta, when the two influences meld, the result is quite pleasing.

    Starting with our hotel, The Sheraton Read House, you get a glimpse of the new-meets-old allure. The historic property, which sits on downtown’s main artery, Broad Street, was built by John T. Read just after the Civil War, and it remains the oldest hotel in the city. The Sheraton recently made it over, offering modern luxury in the rooms but a lobby that harkens back to a time when the Chattanooga Choo Choo would come rumbling down the line.

    But perhaps the most startling contrast of old-meets-new is on the banks of the Tennessee River. Sitting up on an 80-foot bluff is the Hunter Museum of American Art, which houses an impressive collection of American art. Sitting side by side, like an architectural odd couple, are the museum’s two houses—one, a traditional Victorian mansion replete with 20-foot splendid white columns, and the other, a Frank Gehry-esque modern glass and steel spectacle—the two could not possibly contrast each other any more. Yet somehow it works, like many of the old and new integrations in Chattanooga, in a kitschy sort of way.

THE ATTRACTION’S ONLY NATURAL

    Chattanooga’s tourism slogan ("A great city by nature") does well to promote its unique natural resources both indigenous and transplanted. Underwater, underground and up over it all, there are quite a few ways to enjoy the city’s unique gifts.

More than 15 years after opening, The Tennessee Aquarium is still argued by many (Atlantans included) to be the gold standard of indoor aquatic habitats. Side-by-side buildings offer separate exhibits—salted or unsalted. One’s a multi-level freshwater odyssey with 100-pound catfish, prehistoric sturgeon and American alligators. The other’s an oceanic journey (which opened in 1995) with sharks, barracuda and chilly little (adorable) penguins. The two-day “Big Fish Pass” makes total sense: You will want to take your time and live underneath all that water at a nice, slow pace.

A few minutes' drive from downtown looms Lookout Mountain, the above-ground home to Rock City and below-ground home to Ruby Falls. Walk through Rock City’s 4,100-foot trail of granite boulevards and corridors, suspended bridges and narrow passages culminating at “Lover’s Leap,” a perch where, on a clear day, you can look out onto seven states. On the other side of the mountain, one may descend 26 stories into the rock to begin your Ruby Falls experience. Deep inside, navigate the narrow passageway leading to the tallest and deepest underground waterfall open to the public. A multi-colored lightshow illuminates the 14-story indoor downpour while a piped-in, soaring score provides an inspiring backdrop. Warning: not ideal for the tall or claustrophobic!
   

CHATTANOOGA CHEW CHEW

    And, yes, I had it all wrong on the food. I expected legions of corporate chains, predictable and staid, with the occasional mediocre local joint, but I was wrong. The Blue Water Grille, a stylish space just a swim from the aquarium, churns out top-notch fresh seafood from Florida. Blue Plate sounds like a diner but comes off as a hip, sophisticated joint that reinterprets comfort food staples with zest and originality. Across the river lies Aretha Frankenstein’s, an eclectic and creative breakfast place. The pancakes and biscuits are simply unequaled in the breakfast universe. Barbecue cravings meet their match at the Sticky Fingers Rib House, where monster, fall-off-the-bone portions of tender chipped pork and beef ribs interact with a variety of sauces. And the Big River Grille and Brewing Works downtown rounded out the bonanza—again, surprising us with the quality and portions. The nicest thing about Chattanooga cuisine? The food is priced like Atlanta, circa 1985. No one would have the chutzpah to charge $28 for a piece of chicken, like in, ahem, some big cities I know. SP